First time builders: VERY IMFORMATIVE...

This forum is for all the tricks and tips and hints by our members. Feel free to post any ideas and photos you have experienced when building a kit. Maybe you modified an OEM part for a kit, let us know how you did it. Did you shave 15 minutes off of a build using a little trick? Great- share the idea here. Please post photos of your idea if you have them. Please DO NOT post general photos of a build here, only post photos that highlight your hint, tip or trick.

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Re: First time builders.

Postby TRDSport on Wed Nov 05, 2008 8:31 am

I concure with Ken... great "building prep" tip here. I built my truck on a shag rug, I dont really think I need to go into great detail on the collossal mistake that was!!! Sad thing was, I then turned and built my trailer on the same rug... I am a glutton for self inflicted punishment I guess. But this new truck build will take place on a nice folding table over a linoleum floor... so any dropped parts will be easily recovered. Great tip again Chris!!!

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Fleet: Right now my operational fleet consists of one Knight Hauler, and 2 custom scale 48' flatbeds. One trailer is a tandem, the other is a spread. Both are polished, with wood decks and the spread is set up with a wireless lighting system and Alcoa replica super singles. The Knight has the light kit, as well as many extra LED's installed. I also have a slightly modified Tamiya van trailer. I also own a Toyota Tundra, stock except for aluminum wheels and S/S hardware.

Re: First time builders.

Postby willsbrook on Thu Nov 06, 2008 7:18 am

I got a tip for ya!!!!

WATCH WHERE YOU"RE GOING!!!!!!!!

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Re: First time builders: VERY IMFORMATIVE...

Postby CBSIMONSEZ on Sat Nov 08, 2008 7:45 am

When it comes to sanding ... the finer the grit the better. I used to think that a 800 grit would be fine enough, but you will see the cuts in the plastic. Finish with at least a 1500 grit on the plastic. You can also use the high grit on any alluminum parts you may install on your truck.

I used 1500 on my stacks; sanding lightly, then finished with Mothers Chrome Polish. Minimal work, and great mirror like results.

If you plan on moving any locations of the stock screws on the rails you will need a 3MM tap. I found a tap and die set at Lowes for $27. Just make sure you buy a metric set.

If you plan on doing a tilting hood conversion youll need a set of 1 inch hindges. I would suggest that you get yourself set up with hindges on the hood and front end using 3M tape. I had a roll of outside double sided tape ( red plastic cover ) and used that AFTER drilling holes everywhere on the front end of my rig. Use the tape to set your lines up, and drill your holes for mounting, or not. The 3M double sided tape is strong enough to hold the hood in place IMO.
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Re: First time builders: VERY IMFORMATIVE...

Postby CBSIMONSEZ on Sun Nov 09, 2008 1:39 pm

You can bend styrene if you boil it first. I made these by boiling the ends, one at a time. I had it in the water maybe a minute or less. Took it out and rolled the end onto itself, held it there ( yeah, its a little warm ) until it cooled.

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Re: First time builders: VERY IMFORMATIVE...

Postby CBSIMONSEZ on Sun Nov 09, 2008 1:43 pm

If you are running a truck and trailer, the light set for the trailer has a plug in it that plugs into either the MFU or the truck light set so that the brakes and turn signals work in unison. I found this out AFTER i thought i was done with taking my completed cab off the frame rails. So i had to remove the cab one last time. The plug installs on the top of the MFU. If you want to run the wires you will need to remove the wire harness ( white clip ). You can do that by inserting a pin or small flat head screw driver into each wire, then gently tugging the wire out of the harness. Keep a record of what color goes back into the harness.
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Re: First time builders: VERY IMFORMATIVE...

Postby CBSIMONSEZ on Tue Nov 11, 2008 4:43 pm

Yes you can buff out aluminum with a Dremel and some Mothers Mag & Aluminum polish. I was on such a roll i didnt take picks of the materials, but i will do my best to describe them.

The buffing wheel is about the size of a quarter, and about 1/4 thick. It has a tiny hole in the center so you can mount it to the universal bit with the tiny screw in it; same bit used for cut off wheels.

The polish is in a small white can with a red Mothers label on it.

MAKE SURE YOUR AREA IS OUT OF HARMS WAY, AS YOU WILL SLING ALOT OF THIS EVERYWHERE UNTIL YOU GET IT DOWN PAT!

I managed to polish my aluminum inside, on my dining room table. I used my trusty blue beach towel on the table, then my cutting board on top and in front of me. I had several cotton rags around. One i bunched up an placed it on the left of my Dremel. I SHOULD MENTION IM LEFT HANDED. IF YOUR RIGHT HANDED, YOU WOULD WANT TO PLACE A TOWEL ON THE RIGHT. This will catch the kick out once you start polishing.

I dabbed the polish wheel into the Mothers and then wiped it on the part i was going to polish. Then started up the Dremel and kept it on the lowest setting ( 1,000 RPMs i believe ). Move the polishing wheel back and forth left to right going with the grain of the aluminum. i was cleaning about a 4 - 5 inch section at a time. Just keep going back and forth ... youll notice the Mothers turns blacker then black ... then youll notice that the heat transfer will cause the wheel to actually buff the section your doing. Then youll notice almost instantly that your looking at a mirror shine. Stop there, as you cant get any better ... believe me i tried. Now move the piece down, and start all over again. I go to where i could polish a 5 inch section of the angle aluminum that holds the decking ... i could get a section done in about 3 mintues.

To polish the entire trialer, and re-assemble took about 2 hours. Once you get a rythem down, youll be amazed at how fast this cleans up. And believe me, the aluminum that Chris sent was raw. Had i known, i wouldnt have even bothered using sand paper on my stacks. I would have gone this route, and been done in half the time. Im actually thinking of taking off the cab again ( yeah, i know ... again ) and polishing my stacks like this for that mirror shine.

FYI ... it does work better if you completely tear down the trailer and polish each individual piece.

BEFORE

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AFTER

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Re: First time builders: VERY IMFORMATIVE...

Postby TRDSport on Sat Nov 15, 2008 10:42 am

Here is another tip regarding frame painting. If your choosing to paint your frame, go get yourself a box of cheap 3mm screws and turn one a couple threads into each threaded hole on both frame rails. This will prevent your holes from filling with paint and clear and making it nearly impossible to build the truck. This would also apply to trailers as well.

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Location: Kansas City
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Favorite Truck: Knight Hauler- 3 of them
Current Projects: Finishing 2 of my Knight Haulers, 2 new van trailers awaiting being built into 28' scale pups, and also construction of 2 dollies on deck.
Fleet: Right now my operational fleet consists of one Knight Hauler, and 2 custom scale 48' flatbeds. One trailer is a tandem, the other is a spread. Both are polished, with wood decks and the spread is set up with a wireless lighting system and Alcoa replica super singles. The Knight has the light kit, as well as many extra LED's installed. I also have a slightly modified Tamiya van trailer. I also own a Toyota Tundra, stock except for aluminum wheels and S/S hardware.

Re: First time builders: VERY IMFORMATIVE...

Postby Roadmasters on Wed Jun 03, 2009 8:41 pm

when i start a kit i orginize all my screws into parts trays (the clear 1's that close) that way i can find a screw measure it to the manual and tht way if u need more than 1 of the same part you dont have 2 dig through 30-40 other things
A box of pmd parts : $400
Holding that box in YOUR hands : Priceless!!!

LOL!!!

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Re: First time builders: VERY IMFORMATIVE...

Postby SEMIJOE on Mon Jun 22, 2009 1:56 pm

HEY HEY!

some awesome tips here :thankyou
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